All Chef Ought to Train At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Secures 4th on Roll of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest place achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.

Karen Davenport
Karen Davenport

Elara Vance is a UK-based astrophysicist and science communicator with over a decade of experience writing about space and technology.